Explore the magic of Ponta Mamoli

Debbie Cooper lives in St Lucia in northern KwaZulu-Natal and headed north to Ponta Mamoli in Mozambique to discover exclusivity and tranquility.

I must confess upfront, I’m a Mozambique virgin – tourist-wise that is. Well, not counting a queasy weekend Bazaruto cruise. That aside, I’d never put foot on mainland Mozambique soil. So it was with great excitement that we ventured North over the Kosi Bay border one winter’s day at the end of May.

Dealing swiftly with vehicle inspections, straightforward passport controls and a smirky jibe by an otherwise pleasant Mozambican customs official about my womanly capacity to drive sand roads, chummily egged on by my husband, we sallied forth from the Kosi Bay border, husband at the wheel.

To call the sandy track to Ponta Mamoli a road, is a delusion of grandeur. Taking the left-most of three discernible routes, we set off across open Umdoni and Lala Palm dotted grasslands. Despite advice to use a 4x4, we’d decided to take our 2x4. And so, ten minutes down the drag, we found ourselves, dare I say it… stuck. A quick dig and tyre-deflation later, with yours truly reinstated at the wheel, the rest of the trip was a breeze.
One solitary signpost relieved concerns that we may be heading for parts unknown and before long we found ourselves on a tar road. This was not mentioned in my telephonic directions and caused a moment of consternation but heck, there were only 11km to go and we were on holiday.

In hindsight, I’m not surprised the tar wasn’t mentioned because it pretty much wasn’t there most of the way. Pockmarked with potholes, the road is a relic from early days. First titanium mining, then the Bank of Lisbon’s tourism plans resulted in significant infrastructure. That was before the war, with its resultant deterioration.
Thirty-one years after independence, the land time temporarily forgot is once again realizing its potential with virtually untouched beaches, dune forest and pristine reefs, mostly unspoiled.

While most of SA shivered in winter woolies, we watched the thermometer rise. And rise. Reaching 40 degrees as we took the final bend up the dune-forested sandy slope. But as we alighted, the unmistakably fresh, cooling touch of the gentlest ocean breeze drifted towards us from an awesome expanse of stunningly turquoise, impossibly smooth sea. It seems we were graced with a rare day. Previously the wind had played up and a distinct chill in the wee hours necessitated an extra blanket at night. With average winter temperatures of well over 20-something degrees, chilly is relative.

Above: View from the dunes looking back to Ponta Mamoli. Right: The beach in front of the resort.

Mamoli is the ‘third bay from the border’, situated north of popular and populated Ponta D’Ouro and Ponta Molongane. Mamoli, however, jealously guards its privacy and exclusivity. With only 150-odd local residents, many are employed in the resort. Developer Rob Garmany and his resident brother Frank started up five years ago. A year later, avid diver Bev Collins wrote in the visitor’s book “I could stay forever”. And so she did, together with husband Kevin. They run the resort like a treasured home, taking particular pride in ensuring guests of a magical stay.

After a warm welcome, we were led to our log cabin, sensitively arranged behind casuarina-strewn dunes and reached by a wooden walkway. Whitewashed and attractively furnished with a mosquito-netted bed, the airy cabins are unpretentious seaside comfort. Not to waste a moment of the spectacular day, we hurried off to the beckoning curve of the sheltered bay, to sink our feet into soft fine sand. Around the point were miles upon miles of un-trodden beaches. For that day at least, ours were the only prints.

Heading back to the resort, we spotted three guests landing fishing skis with decent catches in hand. A solitary shore fisherman cast a lonely figure against vast blue waters stretching endlessly to the horizon, the entire sea his for the fishing. Rare indeed. As we sank icy local Laurentina beers, we had to agree – life’s hell in Africa.

And then, the food. Aah, the food. Mozambican chefs JP and Moses lend a piquant touch to their individual styles of Portuguese dishes, under the foodie eye of F&B Manager, Michael. I shamelessly succumbed to every last crumb of each delicious three-course meal. I identify fully with the resident leguaan who risks a sneaky dash through the lapa fence each Friday night, whisking a flame-grilled Nando’s-style baby chicken from beneath Chef’s nose. If he discovers a yen for seafood, he has a feast waiting.

But I digress. Bev announced a sundowner drive up Madejanine Hill, the highest dune. As she pointed out local sights, a million butterflies fluttered about like multi-coloured fairy confetti. Northwards to Techobanine, south to Ponta Molongane and inland to Africa, the views afforded a sense of spectacular place. Dozens of grass fires sent smoke signals into the sunset, as they have for hundreds of years. Bev explained that locals burn to chase animals into traps for food. Sadly, this means very little wildlife remains outside reserves. Birds, once scarce, are increasing in numbers and some 165 can be spotted around Mamoli, along with chameleons and frogs, like the pyjama-striped fellow we found on a banana leaf near our room.

Above: Diving offshore from the resort. Right: Freedom on horseback

Undersea however, is an abundance of life. Rated one of the premier diving sites world-wide, Mamoli has not only exclusivity but diversity too, allowing divers an unparalleled experience including many types of sharks, pelagic fish and appealingly quaint seahorses. A huge variety of reefs, from deep and rocky to shallow coral with such beckoning names as Bass City, Castle Reef, beg to be explored.

Kicking ourselves for poor planning, we regretted letting our diving tickets lapse but consoled ourselves with snorkelling in the bay where we saw many stunning species including the Mamoli trademark - the beautifully delicate Moorish Idol. Calmer weather would have enabled a visit to other bays – but we weren’t complaining. Had time not been limited, we would have opted to do a refresher course with Bev or Kevin, both qualified PADI instructors.

Sitting around the lapa fire in the evening, we met fellow guests including a honeymoon couple. Mamoli is a sought after wedding venue, with the backdrop of sea behind a flower-strewn deck.

Brimming with the first of several excellent meals, we headed off happily to bed. Lulled to sleep we were NOT. The sea crashed thunderously, metres beyond our open door, exploding furiously against the shore. I thought sleep would be impossible. How wrong I was. Within minutes I slipped into a deep, satisfying slumber, awakening to pinkly filtered light. Dawn anywhere is awash with promises of new adventures, and nowhere more than at the sea’s edge. A southerly wind nudged morning clouds, heralding cooler weather.
I wasn’t about to let the chance of a horse ride pass, not with all that scenery, so, led by the energetic Kevin, we saddled up and took off for an hour’s ride around a nearby vlei.
The weekend drew to a close and with it a refreshed spirit. Fighting a losing battle with my waistline, I figured it was high time to part ways with the wicked chefs of Mamoli. Not a moment too soon either as all I could find to comfortably fit after the indulgence was a kikoyi. Fortuitously the ideal look for a beach holiday, I figured nobody would discover my crafty ploy.

One needn’t be a diver to visit Mamoli, though it surely is one of the ultimate venues. There is a serenity of space and peace, comfort and cocooning and beachy fun for all.
No vehicles or quad bikes are allowed on the beach, nor can one launch private boats. This sanctuary is fiercely protected. You won’t find TV either. Instead you’ll find a slower rhythm of life and a return to that rarest of things - true peace.

Closer than Durban for anyone North of the Umfolozi River, it’s a weekend escape from Zululand. With borders easing and trans-frontier parks expanding, it’s on our back doorstep. Go!

Diving Sodwana Bay